How to setup outlook express

How to Set Up Outlook Express

Published: August 26, 2003

Before you can use Outlook Express to send and receive e-mail, you need to set up an account. You can have more than one account—for business, online shopping, and so on—and each person who uses your computer may have their own, completely separate account. Outlook Express gracefully handles it all.

On This Page

	Start Outlook Express
	Set Up an Outlook Express E-Mail Account
	Set Up a Web-based E-Mail Account
	Close Outlook Express

Start Outlook Express

There are many ways to start Outlook Express, but here's a sure-fire way to find and start it.

1.	Click the Start button.
2.	Point to All Programs.
3.	Click Outlook Express. These first three steps are shown in the image below: Opening Outlook Express from the Start menu
4.	If asked whether you'd like to open this particular account automatically every time you start Outlook Express, click Yes (if you do) or No (if you don't). If you don't want to be asked this question again, click to check the Always perform this check... box.
5.	Check When Outlook Express starts, go directly to my Inbox. Outlook Express directs all incoming mail to the Inbox, so it makes sense to bypass this opening page. If you don't see the list of folders and contacts on the left, click Layout on the View menu. Click Contacts and Folder List to check them, and then click OK. Outlook Express list of folders Quick start. You'll notice that when you use Outlook Express regularly, Windows XP will put the Outlook Express icon on the Start menu (along with other programs you've used recently). In that case, just click the Outlook Express icon in the Start menu to open the program.

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Set Up an Outlook Express E-Mail Account

The Internet Connection Wizard makes short work of setting up your online mailbox by walking you through each step for every e-mail account you set up.

1.	Before you get going, make sure you know your email address along with the following information. (You may need to contact your ISP, Internet Service Provider, to get it.) First, information about the e-mail servers: • The type of e-mail server you use: POP3 (most e-mail accounts), HTTP (such as Hotmail), or IMAP • The name of the incoming e-mail server • For POP3 and IMAP servers, the name of the outgoing e-mail server (generally SMTP) Second, information about your account: • Your account name and password (For some solid advice about making a secure password, read the Create strong passwords article.) • Find out if your ISP requires you to use Secure Password Authentication (SPA) to access your e-mail account—yes or no is all that's required.
2.	Start Outlook Express, and on the Tools menu, click Accounts. If the Internet Connection Wizard starts up automatically, skip ahead to step 4.
3.	Click Add, and then click Mail to open the Internet Connection Wizard. Mail option from the Add button
4.	On the Your Name page of the wizard, type your name as you want it to appear to everyone who gets e-mail from you, and then click Next. Most people use their full name, but you can use any name—even a nickname—that people will recognize.
5.	On the Internet Explorer Address page, type your e-mail address, and then click Next.
6.	On the E-mail Server Names page, fill in the first block of information that you gathered from your ISP in step 1, and then click Next. Internet Connection Wizard's E-mail Server Names Note: If you chose HTTP as your incoming e-mail server—as for a Hotmail or MSN account—this wizard page changes slightly so you can identify your HTTP mail service provider.
7.	On the Internet Mail Logon page, type your account name and password. Internet Connection Wizard's Internet Mail Logon Note: If you're concerned about break-ins to your e-mail, click to clear the check in the Remember Password box. You'll then be prompted for the password each time you send or retrieve mail.
8.	Click Next, and then click Finish. You're ready to send your first e-mail! Unsure if your new e-mail account is working? Send an e-mail message to a friend. If they get the message, your account is ready to roll! But if you run into problems setting up your account, Outlook Express offers help. Search for troubleshooting topics from Contents and Index on the Help menu.

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Set Up a Web-based E-Mail Account

The e-mail that you get in a Hotmail account and other Web-based accounts is not stored on your hard disk, but is kept on the account-provider's computer. That's what makes it possible to access your account from any computer in the world over the Internet. Here's how you set yourself up.

1.

Go to the Web site and follow the setup instructions—for example, http://www.hotmail.com/ for Hotmail.

2.

Set up Outlook Express to use the account, by following the instructions above in Set up an Outlook Express e-mail account. If you share your computer with someone else, take advantage of Fast User Switching. A feature of Windows XP, it lives up to its name by enabling you to switch among users on a single computer without closing any programs you are running or logging off. • To turn Fast User Switching on, open User Accounts in Control Panel. Click Change the way users log on or off. Make sure the Use Fast User Switching box is checked. • Then, to switch users, click Start, click Log off and then click Switch User. On the Welcome screen, click the user account you want to switch to. That's it!

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Close Outlook Express

In closing, Outlook Express works just as all other Windows programs do.

•	On the File menu, click Exit. Tip: For a fast way out, press ALT+F4.

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How to setup wireless network

Wireless networks have some major advantages over traditional, cabled networks. First, you don’t have to pull cables through walls and ceilings or install wall jacks. Second, devices that are wirelessly connected are portable; you can move them around the office at will. Finally, guests in your company's office can easily connect to the network, subject to security protocols that an administrator controls.

However, wireless networks do present potential security problems. Unless a wireless network is properly configured, it is vulnerable to anyone passing by your company's office, people on the floor above or below the office, or even individuals outside of the building. The range of wireless networks is shorter than that of wired networks and varies depending on the thickness and composition of intervening walls, floors and ceilings. Wireless networks are slower than modern wired networks but can still reach respectable speeds of more than 54 Mbps.

Here are step-by-step instructions for setting up a wireless network.

1. Choose Your Networking Hardware

You will need at least two pieces of hardware: a broadband wireless router and a wireless-network adapter.

The router incorporates a wireless access point that is the interface between your wired Internet connection and the radio network that broadcasts and receives Internet traffic throughout the access point’s range. The router controls traffic between the devices in your network and the Internet, combining outgoing messages and routing them to the Internet, as well as directing incoming traffic to individual devices.

The wireless-network adapter enables a device (typically a PC or a printer) to send and receive messages over the wireless network. It is essentially a small, two-way radio transmitter.

Wireless networks use one of several flavors of the 802.11 standard. The most flexible version is 802.11b/g. The “g” standard is backward-compatible with the “b” standard, so this type of router can connect to network adapters that use either the “b” or “g” standards (though it will not connect to older, slower “a”-type adapters).

Once you have purchased the router and the network adapter(s), the next step is to connect the router to the Internet.

2. Unplug Your Cable or DSL Modem to Turn It Off

Disconnect the modem from the incoming phone wire or coaxial cable that connects it to the Internet.

Next, connect your router to the modem using a CAT 5 cable, which is usually supplied with the router. Plug the cable into the router port labeled “WAN,” “WLAN” or “Internet” on the back of the router.

Reconnect the modem to the Internet and turn it on. After a short period during which the modem and router negotiate with each other, the router’s LEDs should light up in a way that indicates it is connected to the Internet. See the router’s documentation to figure out what the LEDs mean.

3. Configure the Router

Temporarily connect a PC to the router using a CAT 5 cable. Plug one end of the cable into the PC’s Ethernet adapter and the other end into one of the router's Ethernet ports. Turn on the PC, and it will automatically connect to the router.

Open your Web browser and enter the router’s IP address in the address field. The router’s IP address, as well as the default username and password that gives you access to the router’s configuration screens, can be found in the router’s documentation.

Most of the router's configuration options can be left on their default settings, but there are a few settings that you should change:

• Set a unique network name, also known as the SSID (service set identifier). The SSID may be your company name, a personal name or any word that gives your network an easily recognized identity.
• Enable WPA2 (Wi-Fi Protected Access) encryption to keep unauthorized persons from accessing the network. A list of encryption keys — basically passwords — will be displayed. Write down at least one of them.
• Change the administrative password so that only you (or a delegated administrator) can alter the router’s configuration settings.

Once you have configured the router, save the new settings. The router will reboot, and the new settings will be enabled.

Disconnect the CAT 5 cable from your PC and router.

4. Install Wireless-Network Adapters in Devices

Many laptops and printers come with built-in wireless-network adapters. For desktop PCs, you may use a PCI-card network adapter. USB or PC Card wireless-network adapters are available for laptop users. You may or may not need to install driver software from a CD.

When you boot a wireless-enabled PC, a small wireless-networking icon will appear in the system tray. Right-click this icon and select the "View Available Wireless Networks" option. Highlight the name of your wireless network and click the “Connect” button.

WPA2 will request an encryption key. Enter the key that you wrote down earlier.

Close the wireless-connection window.

You are now wirelessly connected to the Internet!

An Alternative to WPA2 Encryption

While WPA2 provides a high level of security, the long encryption keys can be a burden on users. Instead of enabling WPA2 encryption, administrators of small networks may want to limit connections to a list of known devices.

Each wireless-network adapter has a MAC (Media Access Control) address, a string of characters that uniquely identifies it. Often, this MAC address is printed right on the network adapter. Your router's configuration screen should give you the option to enter multiple MAC addresses. When this feature is set up properly, only MAC addresses that have been added to this list will be allowed to connect to the wireless network.

How-To Setup A Basic Home Theater

Introduction
Despite the increasing complexity of audio/video systems these days, not all people require (or have the budge to afford) a professional installation. Many performance-oriented readers who are on a tight budget prefer to do system installation themselves and invest their installation budget into better gear. While there is a point in every big-dollar AV system where you need the pros, the do-it-yourselfer can still have sweet success when setting up a receiver, a DVD player and other associated gear. I have compiled some ideas to think about and some tips from my recent installation of a bedroom theater. Hopefully they will give you some guidance for when you install your system.


Before You Start
Here are a few ideas to think about before you start setting up your system:

1. Consider where your gear is going to go. Is there enough room? You can make estimates from dimensions found on the manufacturer’s websites. Do you have room for additional components (HD receivers, game machines, TiVos, DVD-R) in the future?

2. Do you have enough AC power coming in? Should you call an electrician first to run a dedicated line from your breaker? Normally, this costs no more than a few hundred dollars and can help your system run better (fewer hums and noise for starters) and makes connecting your system easier too.

3. How much heat are you going to be generating? If your gear is going to be making a lot of heat, you will want to deal with this concept first. Having a handyman or installing a whisper fan connected to a vent is a worthy idea before you start your install.

4. Do you have a phone connection and a high-speed data connection ready at your rack? Your satellite receivers and TiVos will need at least a telephone connection. If you are buying a new Tivo2 or will be connecting a PlayStation2 or Xbox, you will want to have a high-speed connection terminated with an Ethernet connection. Such a connection will allow you to program your TiVo2 from your computer (not just the remote) and a high-speed connection will allow you to connect your new game machine so that you can have interactive play with other gamers all over the world. Even if you don’t plan on using the features, it might be worthwhile considering running the high-speed connection so that you do not have to disconnect the entire system in order to make an upgrade.

5. How far will you be sitting from your TV? A salesperson will sell you the biggest TV he or she can, often despite your needs. What you don't want is a set that is sized so that the width of the screen is at least 1.5 to 2.5 times the distance you sit from the set. Otherwise, even a great TV will look less than its best.

6. How heavy is your gear? Bryan Dailey and I recently installed a home theater in my bedroom. The shelf in my custom cabinet (which was specially braced with metal bars) sagged dramatically within hours of installation. A/V gear gets heavy and you need to consider this before you do all of the work to install your system. A big 34-inch Sony XBR HDTV, like the one I used, weighs 210 pounds. You need a strong stand to make this work without ruining any custom cabinetry.

7. Never order or buy a cable that is less than two meters long. It seems like you are saving money, but you are just making your system inflexible. You need the flexibility to move and adjust the placement of your gear. Too many times, short cables get in the way of making your system go together the way you want it to work.

Parts

Buy enough miscellaneous parts. You might want to make sure that you have things like:

• BNC to RCA adaptors
• Y adaptors
• Connectors (spades, banana, pins)
• an SPL meter (Radio Shack)
• BlueTac
• extra batteries (AA, AAA and nine-volt)
• long phone chords
• Ethernet cables

You ALWAYS need this stuff and keeping it on-hand saves you potential grief.

Tools

Make sure you have the right tools on hand. Things you might need include:

• a good power screw driver
• a drywall saw
• small tools such as screw drivers (flathead and Philips)
• a full set of Allen keys including metric
• a good flash light
• a good wire cutter and/or stripper (Klein is a recommended brand)
• a really nice wire stripper
• a solder pot (if you are getting really serious)

Consider the Cables

It is always a good idea to draw out your entire system on paper and project the cables you will need. Then buy extra because you always need them. My bedroom system is a basic yet modern setup that includes a 34-inch Sony XBR TV, a Denon receiver, a Denon DVD-Audio/SACD player, a Sony HD TV receiver, a Sony TiVo, a Mitsubishi VCR and a 5.1 Gallo Acoustics speaker system. Here is the list of the cables I needed – it may help you select the ones you might need:

• Three speaker cables (2 meters) for the front and center speakers. The length was more than sufficient, because the speakers were installed directly above the place where the receiver was to be installed

• Over 200 feet of in-wall speaker cable (Transparent’s Music Link) was used during construction for the rear speakers. I had the speaker wires pulled to the location of the equipment.

• Three pairs of RCA interconnects for the 5.1 audio output of the DVD-Audio and SACD. You need these to be pretty good interconnects and will want them all the same length and variety. You don’t want to get cheap on this connection. It is really important to the sound of your movies and music.

• Three two-meter component video cables were used to connect video from the HD Receiver to the TV (direct), the DVD player to the receiver and the receiver to the TV. If you are using a receiver, make sure that your cables have RCA connections on them or that you have enough BNC to RCA adaptors.

• DVI cables rock. If you have a set like mine and can connect a source via DVI, I highly recommend you do it. The cables are easy to use and easy to connect. Get a long one (or two). Ultra Link makes a nice DVI cable that is pretty affordable.

• S-Video cables are unfortunately a necessity for almost every system. The problem is that the cables inherently suck because the pins inside the connector need to be aligned perfectly when connecting the cable. If not, they bend or break off. If they do, consider yourself screwed. You might need S-Video cables for connecting a VCR, TiVo or a basic satellite receiver.

• Composite video cables look just like RCA audio cables but they are designed to pass video signal. They are useful for connecting VCRs, game machines and other components.

• TosLink digital cables are useful for connecting the audio out of an HDTV receiver and many receivers have inputs for them. You want a digital out of your satellite receiver so that you can listen to movies from the movie channels in surround (when available).

• COAX digital cables are also like RCA cables but they are formulated for passing digital information. You will likely want to connect one of these bad boys from your DVD-Audio player to your receiver, thus setting up movie input as an additional input for your system. Advantages to this include allowing you to be able to rip MP3s from CDs and playing DTS CDs in surround sound.

• Cable companies make specific subwoofer cables. I have never tried one, but they are an interesting option. If you opt for a traditional cable, make sure you leave yourself plenty of room for moving your subwoofer around the room. RCA to RCA connectors, needed to extend a subwoofer cable, work sometimes but not always. Sometimes they are the cause of hum and noise, which will drive you insane.

Installing The System

Knowing a few tricks ahead of time is like learning lessons when building Ikea bookcases. It takes a little while to get the hang of the first one. After the third one, you can build them in your sleep. Here are a few ideas to help you have more fun and fewer headaches installing your system.

1. Sucker a buddy to come over and help you. Buy him or her plenty of Red Stripe (don’t forget limes) or open a nice Au Bon Climat XX Anniversary Chardonnay. Having a helper makes things go much faster. Imagine if a surgeon had to go looking for a scalpel every time her or she needed one.

2. Open all of the boxes, remove the manuals, remove the remotes and then remove the gear. Figure out how things are going to be stacked and confirm with a tape measure that they will fit.

3. Power up all remotes with batteries.

4. Find all warranty cards and save them in a big envelope. Fill them out the next day. Do not forget to fill them out or you may be sorry if anything ever breaks.

5. Open all of your cables and arrange them in a staging area near your tools. Be sure to cover your floor with a tarp or blanket to protect your carpet or hardwood floors.

6. Open and un-box your speakers, but don’t sweat their positions too much. The first night you will want to just make them play. Fine-tuning them is for another time after your preliminary set-up.

7. Start loading up your rack or cabinet with the gear positioned such that you can install it easily. This is where you’ll be glad you bought two-meter cables, because the slack you have now can be used to make your system slide together easily.

8. Start attaching all of your speaker cables first, especially if you are working with a receiver. If you have a pin or banana plug connector on the receiver end of the speaker cable, then you are in good shape. Most receivers do not leave enough room for connection of speaker cables and it is the single most frustrating part of the installation project. I recommend, especially if you are using bare wire, that you take your time during this part. Make sure you have the wire stripped far enough down the cable. Twist the cable very well and then twist it again around your binding post of your receiver. Having to do this twice is a pain in the ass you can live without. Also, installing other inputs first make installing the speaker connectors on the back of the receivers even harder to successfully complete.

9. Once the speakers are connected solidly, start connecting inputs. For example, you might connect your TV with a component cable. You might start with sources after that. Arrange the cables you need for each source one at a time. In the case of a DVD-Audio/SACD player connect the 6 RCA cables first – being careful to connect the correct corresponding interconnect from the player to the receiver. They are not always labeled the same. Sometimes Left Surround is labeled “left rear” or “LR.” Connect the digital audio cable and the component video cable. Once done with plugging in cables, program the input(s) on your receiver for the source. Test with any DVD-Audio disc from 5.1 Entertainment (they have Bob Marley, Astrud Gilberto and many others) with their test tones. A lady’s voice will read off your speakers (assuming your speakers are already connected at the speaker side). If the connections are crossed up, you’ll know it now and can fix it. Trust me, it is easier now than a few hours (and a few Red Stripes) later.

10. Move on to other inputs, systematically installing each and adding up your successes with each source component.

11. Install a direct connection from your traditional satellite receiver or cable box right to your TV. You will want to have that so you can just turn your TV on and watch without getting involved with your entire system.

Programming

Programming your system has a lot to do with what brand gear you have purchased and will likely require a glance at your manuals.

1. One of the most important steps for any modern theater is setting up the speakers in your receiver. Be sure to measure off the distances of all of your speakers and subs. Write them down on a legal pad and then hunt down this menu in your receiver so you can program it in. This speaker set-up is elemental to good sound from your system in your room. It cannot be skipped.

2. In the speaker set-up section, look for the bass management tools. This is where you tell your receiver what kind of speakers you have. For example, if you have floor-standing speakers for fronts, you will need to let your receiver know this. The same holds true if you have small rear speakers. You might also want to consider where to cross your speakers over with your subwoofer. Figure out where your speakers start rolling off in the low frequencies and then consider setting your receiver’s crossover to bring your sub in there. If that isn’t enough punch for you, you can try to run your subwoofer full-range as well. Bass management is a huge issue specifically for getting great performance from your DVD-Audio and DVD-Video sources.

3. If you are using satellite receivers, you might need to have them go to the satellite and find all of the channels. This can be completed in the set-up menu.

4. If you are using TiVo or another PVR, you will want to have it dial into their servers and download the channels and programming. This can take as long as an hour. If your PVR needs a software update, then the download can take even longer.

5. Your TV is guaranteed to be set up poorly out of the box, even if you bought a brand new one. I highly recommend you invest $24 in the new Digital Video Essentials DVD and use its set-up modes for your TV. You will find that you can get blacker blacks, more contrast, more vibrant colors and more three-dimensionality from your TV than you thought possible. The DVE disc has the tools and setup menus for you that can help you through the process.

6. Universal remotes could be an entirely separate how-to article. If you invested in one, I recommend you take some time with your system to figure out how you use your system before you invest hours programming your remote. Otherwise, you will want to make changes.

Conclusion

Try to create a situation where the installation of your theater is fun. Take pride in each success you have in the process. Don’t be in a rush and don’t be afraid to call in for help. One of the best reasons to buy gear from a good local dealer is to have someone on the other end of the telephone who will answer quick questions. Trust me, it is worth 10 percent more than some gray market dealer who advertises in the New York Times.

In the end, you will be glad that you installed your own theater and you will likely get more out of it than someone who gets a 20-minute lesson from the installer from the local mega-dealer. You will own the knowledge of how your system is connected, how it is programmed and what it can do. Even after the initial installation, you can have fun learning more and more about how to take your system to the next level of performance and ease of use. You might install a remote repeater system. You might automate your drapes. You might add another zone to your system for outdoor speakers or a den. The possibilities are vast and the results will leave you loving your system more than you thought possible.

How to setup wii

How to Set Up a Wii

Introduction

The Nintendo Wii is a video game console featuring motion sensing controls and a wealth of family-friendly games. However, while it may be a system geared towards parties and large groups, even hardcore gamers can find plenty of great competitive games. First, you need to set up your Wii console! Fortunately, this is a snap to do and doesn't take a lot of time.

Instructions

Steps

1. Step One
Place the Wii either horizontally or vertically, setting it in the included stand if you choose the vertical position. Simply lower the Wii into the stand's brackets and slide it backwards until you hear it click into place.

2. Step Two
Connect the power cord into both the Wii and the wall socket/power strip. The DC adapter plugs into the Wii near the bottom of the back of the console.

3. Step Three
Connect the sensor bar to the back of the Wii. It is the red port above and to the left of the adapter port.

4. Step Four
Mount the sensor bar either on the top or at the base of your television. You can use sticky pads to ensure it is secure, or simply remove the protective covering off of the foam that is already present on the sensor bar.

5. Step Five
Plug the Wii end of the video/audio output cables into the Wii, and then into your television/receiver/VCR. If you want to lead your audio to different equipment, like directly into a stereo, the wires can be peeled to give you the slack you need.

6. Step Six
Turn on the Wii console to ensure everything has been done correctly. Remember to set your television's channel to the proper output setting or you won't see video.

Overall Tips & Warnings

• Use a power strip with a surge protector to set up your Wii. This will prevent the circuits from being damaged in the event of a power surge or a blackout.

• if your TV is positioned particularly close to or directly on the floor. The lower the sensor bar, the less responsive your Wiimote will be to downward motion or actions on the bottom of the screen.

• Wii will be unstable in the vertical position, it's better to lay it flat instead. While the base provides great stability, your Wii can still be damaged if it is heavily jostled.

Resources

• Nintendo's Wii Setup Guide at Nintendo.com

• Register your Wii at Nintendo.com